south india, tell me more


On 11 June 1993, I was born in India. 4 years later, my family migrated to Singapore and I called the place home ever since. I’ve always thought of myself as Singaporean first, and Indian only by origin. I never visited India again for the next six years.  I had grown up in such a developed city that is Singapore, I was slightly afraid to confront that the country I should call my birthplace was one that was dirtier, more unruly and so much less ‘cultured’. Obviously I hadn’t really grown up.

Even after visiting the country 3 more times since, I wasn’t convinced that I should acknowledge the country as having played a role in who I was. I visited family, and did some shopping with the folks, but beyond that I never got a chance to truly understand India. After catching the travel bug, I decided I should come to India again, this time by myself. I’ll visit as much of family as possible for sure, but other than my grandparents who I prioritized above all else, I was to be independent in my discovery of India. I had heard so much about this country from my friends who weren’t Indian, I needed to see what captivated them so much.

I planned a trip to some major cities and then some tamer areas , to get a good understanding of the region. The first thing I learnt is that India is huge, and because of that it’s so diverse. My political sense is conflicted on how to manage a country that is so rampantly colorful, contrasting it to Singapore’s relatively homogeneous composition. It’s an entirely different set of challenges. I shortlisted it to South India then, and given my two week constraint, planned to hit Mumbai (Maharashtra), Hyderabad (Andhra Pradesh), Bangalore and Mysore (Karnataka), Kochi and Allepey (Kerala) and Coimbatore and Kotagiri (Tamil Nadu).  There’s still so many places I need to see in South India (Goa, Pondi, Ajanta etc.) , not to mention there’s also North India, but this itinerary already gave me such an insightful look into what makes India so special.

Each city offered me something different and I’m still recovering from the range of experiences but here’s a city by city recap of what I did and saw. I’ve been told my travelogues are helpful and I’ll try my best to keep them as functional as possible.

Mumbai (or Bombay)

If you want to see the South India they show in movies, Mumbai is the city to come to. Slumdog Millionaire for those unfamiliar with Bollywood , is based on this city. For those familiar with Bollywood, I need not say more. While not really South India , more of West India, it provides a useful gateway into South India . Residents of this city affectionately call it Bombay, from the Anglicization of the name Mumbai by the Portuguese migrants before. Being on the west coast of India, one of the best things about the city is the view from Marine Drive or Queen’s Necklace, that stretches around the bay.  You can see pocket crowds on Chowpatty beach in the day , although it’s considered dirty, and bigger crowds lining the Drive admiring the view at night. It’s a popular romancing spot.

What caught my eye though was the range of British architecture set up here, like the Victoria Terminus station you see above, amongst various others including the High Court and Flora Fountain. It almost appropriately fits in, emanating a strong sense of colonial history.  These sights are definitely worth a walk through the streets of South Mumbai and will take half a day down to Gateway of India, where early travelers to India would enter under a giant monument.

Perhaps what’s interesting about Mumbai is that it’s position as the Financial Capital of India puts it on the same level as cities like New York and Hong Kong in its dynamics. People from all around India hoard into the city, causing major congestion and overpopulation. It’s essentially a city that’s showing signs of stress, socially having to educate its population on what’s right and wrong, and managing the inequality.  I saw lots of signs like the one above, encouraging women suffrage and empowerment. It was new to me, and I realised this was probably another symptom of an eclectic mix of populations, with people from rural backgrounds moving in without the ‘modern’ upbringing provided in most cities.

This same stress can be seen in the obvious disparities in lifestyles that is perhaps unique to Mumbai. In other big cities, there are homeless people and that’s unfortunately been taken as a given in established cities. Here, not only do the poor and rich live together, they live side by side. Mumbai is home to most of India’s most expensive properties, with the whole Marine Drive area racking up millions of dollars in costs, and also home to India’s most populous slum areas. A lot of people in these slums don’t really care about pity, they just find it a cheap way of living, and work in various industries. In fact, it’s probably the luxurious lifestyles of the ultra rich that drives the population influx as more people come to work and serve their needs whether directly or indirectly through the jobs they create. You can find pockets in Mumbai of quiet bliss where the upper middle class to upper class enjoy sudden ambush of greenery, such as the Sports Clubs and Racecourse.

Mumbai is definitely a cornerstone to understanding India, and provides a lot of context for understanding the development of India. It’s not as cosmopolitan as Bangalore as a city, but boasts the same bravos as the biggest cities in the world. Also if you’ve built up the immunity , try to eat the street food here, it’s rumored to be among the best in India (especially the Pav Vadai).

Hyderabad

Hyderabad is the seat of power for the Nizams and Shahs who ruled over the region in the past. It’s a mainly historical city, holding so many architectural and cultural gems. The Charminar and Salar Jung Museum stand as symbols of pride of this formerly great city, as Cyberabad carries on the legacy of the region nearby. Come during Ramadan (or Ramzan as it’s called here) and be treated to especially delicious meals of Hyderabad Biryani and Haleem , rich dishes meant to help fasting Muslims replenish their calories at the end of fast.

I was lucky enough to be here on Eid, since Hyderabad is a dominantly Muslim state, allowing me to witness such festivities as the city transformed itself for processions, prayers and family gatherings. It compares so differently to Singapore-Malaysian style of celebrations, having a strong Arabic influence.

Take a day out to visit the ruins out in the Golconda area, especially the fort. When the Shahs ruled from here, they built the fort so intelligently and purposefully, you will be taken aback at all the tricks and secrets held behind the walls. Take a guide for this area, it’ll be well worth the 800 Rs. Around the fort is a few other historical areas, but the other one worth visiting most are the Qatb Shah tombs.

shah

You can skip the guide for this area and just wander around. They have written guides around the campus for reading and the sights are more than enough to overwhelm you. Strongly Indo-Saracenic , these architectural boasts remind you of the ambition of the old rulers and how things used to be so different. Hyderabad is but a taste of the larger historical significance held in India, with so many other features waiting to be explored. It’s definitely a special place to visit.

Bangalore and Mysore

11770371_10152987758194117_1652142739_o

Bangalore and Mysore are two slightly different cities but are so close by each other we can talk about them together. Bangalore is really a lifestyle city , it’s a city you can live in. While it’s becoming heavily more like Mumbai especially with its developing Hi-Tech City , it maintains a strong balance in having a good mix of arts, culture, food and environment. Above you can see Cubbon Park, a park built during British time, that holds so much rich natural diversity, you could spend a half day here. The park is also in the Central Administrative Region, therefore holding all the important structures in Bangalore in the vicinity.

11780569_10152990733819117_1187918549_n

Bangalore was built on the empire of Kempe Gowda, with  Mysore being also important. It’s said that the name behind Bengaluru (as it’s called here) comes from the Anglicization of the local term for Boiled Beans which is what was offered to Kempe Gowda by a local when he came here. Visit the Bangalore Palace and see how the Wodeyars (the latest rulers) lived, with its embellished interior. It doesn’t compare to the Palace in Mysore, also owned by them, but you’ll find interesting artifacts like the elephant leg stool made after they killed an elephant for sport. It tells stories of a different time with different norms, but this really killed me a bit inside.

It’s also called the beer capital of the world, so go down to 100 feet road to try some local brews. Check out the arts and culture here, and enjoy life as a South Indian.

11787343_10152994161024117_1837723950_n

A must do is to visit MTR, and have the rava dosa. It’s so savory and well put together that you cannot resist ordering another. Rava is a kind of flour used by the restaurants here during food shortage post World War II, as it was easy to make and cheap. It ended up being so delicious people stuck by it.

Once you’re done with Bangalore, take a day trip to Mysore, 4 hours away. This is where more historical places lie , like the Mysore Palace famed for its interior halls. No photos are allowed inside unfortunately.

Visit the top of the Chamundi hill for a beautiful view of Mysore as well as the temple that’s there with heavily ornamented features. You can skip Brindavan Gardens if you’re looking for the Musical Fountain, but go to see how locals spend their evenings in the parks, and how the same park is treated so differently in different countries. Here youths play Kabaddi , an aggressive sport, and families have picnics. You also see sights like these:

Coimbatore

Coimbatore isn’t really visited for touristic purposes. It’s normally just a step into the Nilgiris or into Kerala, but it provides an understanding of India probably crucial to appreciating its development. Coimbatore is known as the Manchester of India for its textile industry, but it also holds many other industrial posts  such as the radiator factory I was invited to tour. India is famously known for its cheap labor , and therefore its dependence on labor intensive industries. But every country wants to move away from labor intensive industries to knowledge intensive industries, and you can see the transition happening here. Locals are getting trained and upgrading themselves, already into the capital intensive stage of their economic development. These people aren’t just trained, but they carry the ethos of India – determined, thorough and tolerant. Enjoy Chettinad food while here as well, with true South Indian dishes finally being dominantly available. Skip out on Hot Chocolate, no matter the recommendations from locals, it is a weak attempt at Western style of cuisine and unless you’re desperate for a burger it can be replaced by visiting proper Indian establishments and enjoying dishes like Paya (Goat Feet) and Nalli (Bone Marrow) .  Look for Hari Bavan or Junior Kuppana.

Kochi and Allepey

11783727_10152998715149117_941965061_o

When the Portuguese came to India, Keralan cities and towns were used as their main areas of interest, where they built their establishments. Kochi is a beautiful town, reminiscent of Malacca, Penang and Panama City in these sense that it’s a coastal town with similar flavors. It’s full of heritage and culture. Take a visit to the Chinese Fishing nets, shown above, where you can see fishermen try to catch fish using cantilever style nets. It’s well worth the trip and underlies a rich heritage still being held onto here. Seafood in Kerala as a whole is so fresh and delicious, it will take you to another level, but take time to enjoy dishes like Fried Beef as well in Kochi.

11793984_10152998717269117_555066537_o

Take some time to visit Mattanperry where the Dutch Palace and Jewish Synagogue are. Built inside ‘Jew Town’ , the area is a hipster dream, with lots of alleyways , murals and photographic backdrops. Visit the antique shops and enjoy the relatively quiet  (there’ll still be the Indian honking) turn of the area. The Dutch Palace is where the Raj of the area lived, and you can see tirelessly done murals etched into the walls of the Ramanaya that are more than worth the meager 5 Rs entrance fee. Also visit St Francis Church, the first European Church built in India that reminds of old Portuguese style architecture. It is now a functioning protestant church under the Church of South India.

After you’re done with Kochi, go down to Allepey to visit the backwaters. No matter what anyone tells you, trust me when I say taking a houseboat and spending nearly 24 hours out on the waters provide some of the most beautiful and magical moments you can experience in India.

11801017_10153001194314117_1375657466_o

The serene and tame waters allow you to enjoy nature and understand why they call Kerala ‘God’s own Country’. Stop for an Ayurvedic massage (Hindu medicinal) along the way and buy fresh seafood to cook as well. Watch how locals live , and have built their whole legacies on the backwaters. It bewilders me, a city slicker on how people can be satisfied to live here, and I’m reminded how much we distort our own realities to keep us moving, when all most need to do is to live comfortably. It was humbling to see how nature and people coexist so charmingly. Bring people you want to spend time with, because you’ll be bonding with them. I had my grandfather, an old ship captain who told me tales of his shipping adventures. He really lived quite the life.

11806409_10153001193194117_1920134190_o

Lobsters, crabs, prawns and fish all exist for your consumption, but the most famous fish in the backwaters is the Karimeen. It doesn’t have much meat on it, but when cooked in Banana Leaves and grilled, it goes well with Keralan rice and Sambar. You can’t come to Kerala and not enjoy the amazingly fresh seafood.

Kotagiri

11806452_10153005171349117_247071824_o

Around Coimbatore are the Nilgiri Hills. Back when the British occupied India, in order to escape the raging heat , they built roads up into the hills and built hill stations for retreats into the cool climates. Eventually the locals took over and started growing the tea plantation industry that’s dominant here. There are three main Hill Stations – Ooty (the more commercial and touristy one) , Conoor (where the Military is based) and Kotagiri. There’s not much differences between the hill stations to be honest, and the best parts of the hills are actually around the stations anyway. I’d strongly recommend befriending a local who can take you around. I had the benefit of having family in the hills, who took me to some of the most beautiful natural terrain landscapes I’ve seen in my life. Colors mix so beautifully, and it feels almost surreal to be standing in the misty hills overlooking such beauty. If you really can’t find anything, ask for Emerald Lake near Ooty for a dazzling view.

11791261_10153006284314117_1427369882_o

There’s tons of open wildlife around the area like bisons, leopards and elephants. I wasn’t fortunate enough to see any of them but if you come at the right time, you can hike into the forests (or sholas as they’re called here) and catch good views of them. Another interesting view is that of the tea plantation workers, working hard to pluck leaves every day for the industry. It’s an example of the labor intensive industry that’s still the bedrock of the economy, but also a reminder of the work gone into a simple product like the cup of tea. Supply chains aren’t just paper models, they’re real people living real lives, contributing to the final product.

___

South India was such an amazing adventure. I made so many friends (thanks Nalin and Raghav for recommending your friends) and visited some old others. I’ve grown a deeper appreciation for my birthright. Although I still don’t strongly identify as Indian, I can see how the values my grandparents and parents gained by living here passed onto me. I can see how struggles here are real – corruption and recklessness is more rampant than tolerable and it’s bleeding through the cracks of the foundation India stands on. But in those struggles, I’m finding beauty of people making their lives work. I’m finding families , watching out for their own, sticking together, I’m seeing romance against the odds, and I’m seeing satisfaction in the minimal. Things are changing, and there’s hope.

I’ve definitely grown as a person from this trip. It was nothing like traveling in Europe and provided its own set of challenges , but as with every solo adventure you learn so much about yourself.

I’m grateful for the ability to travel. In two weeks time, I’ll be going to the Orient. That should be fun.

geronimo.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s